In October 1975, I arrived at the Syrian-Turkish border. We took a taxi from Gaziantep, Turkey, to Kilis, a border town. We stepped into Syria, where an army major sat. He smiled and asked me some questions. “Where do you plan to go today?” “Aleppo,” I said. “Good....
No one will tell you about it. The guidebooks barely mention it. Postcards avoid it. Most artists stay away. Kond lies hidden behind the city’s modern buildings, with few access points. An array of winding alleys, inaccessible by car, comprise this area. Deep black...
Traversing a street represents a simple procedure in most places. A light turns green, and you cross. But Hanoi specializes in scooter madness and pedestrian frustration. The city possesses an overwhelming number of these two-wheeled machines. A lack of stoplights and...
Envision two cities worlds apart. You fly from one to the other, leaving a world of poverty, dirt, and crowded roads for intense cleanness, organization, and streets that work. Here’s a tale of a pair of such places. The taxi pulls in front of my hotel in Paharganj...
