Secrets of the Draa Valley

Secrets of the Draa Valley

When I reached the Draa Valley at sunset, I gazed at sunlit brown hills, deep valleys, and faraway snow-capped mountains. Despite their beauty, they failed to hint at what lay ahead.    Most people associate sand, camels and intense heat with the Sahara. Few...
An intriguing Syrian major demands To Know What?

An intriguing Syrian major demands To Know What?

In October 1975, I arrived at the Syrian-Turkish border. We took a taxi from Gaziantep, Turkey, to Kilis, a border town. We stepped into Syria, where an army major sat. He smiled and asked me some questions. “Where do you plan to go today?” “Aleppo,” I said. “Good....
Travel in the time of tyrannical insanity

Travel in the time of tyrannical insanity

Bulgaria in 1975 presents a picture of perfected repression combined with enhanced depression. Buildings crying for renovation lined the streets of Sofia, the capital. Stores specialized in selling nothing. The Bulgarians either wanted to talk to you or avoided you...