Centuries-old red brick buildings, some restored, others decrepit line Bhaktapur’s narrow, winding streets, drawing me into another era. Away from the tourist shops, little’s changed since their construction. Bhaktapur, which means Place of Devotees, has the best display of ancient architecture in the country. 

The Durbar Square marks the city’s centre. Nepal’s 2015 earthquake wasn’t kind to the religious structures living there. Piles of rubble lie scattered around the area, but reconstruction is underway. Polls hold up the fronts of many old buildings. Most temples stand, resisting the quake’s destruction. Their beams feature carvings of various undisturbed Hindu gods.  

I walk to Taumadhi Square to admire the Nyatapola Temple, which towers over it with a view over the hills and surrounding the valley. Several rooftop cafes await you. I climb the Temple and watch the scene below of people going about their daily routines, as they have for centuries.  

Bhaktapur’s genuine appeal lies beyond its temples and palaces in its array of ancient, multi-story buildings. Carved wooden beams protrude from the brickwork. Beneath, shops sell modern goods in contrast to their surroundings. Locals carry smartphones, defying the past. People compete with motorbikes and goats on the narrow roads, paved with red bricks. Small shrines lie on corners with offerings to the gods. The occasional chicken scurries by, unaware of the surrounding chaos, while a young goat stares at me, wishing to be freed. 

The city of Bhaktapur lies in the Kathmandu Valley and can be visited for the day from the capital. However, stay one night or longer to feel the heart of this ancient town.   

You must pay US$15 or 1500 rupees to enter Bhaktapur for up to seven days. The money is used to maintain the old temples.